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Interview with Chef Linton Hopkins of Restaurant Eugene

Bon Appétit magazine named him as one of "5 Chefs to Watch in 2005" and Esquire magazine named his restaurant one of the "Best New Restaurants of 2004." Behind those titles are a passion for the best local ingredients, an active respect for farmers and producers, a restaurant that pays tribute to his grandfather, and, well, a really nice guy...

Tell us about the food you grew up with.
I grew up eating home cooked foods. My Mother was an outstanding cook. On special Sundays we would have mustard rubbed leg of lamb and mushroom baked rice. We rarely ate dessert but Mom made the best chocolate pot de crème. She also made homemade mayonnaise which I consider to be one of the world's best sauces.

You named your restaurant after your grandfather Eugene. How did he influence you?
He influenced me in many ways, both culinary and personal. His greatest influence was that he was a gentleman. He worked hard and cared deeply and passionately about those things, such as family, gardening, and food; which were important to him.

What foods did your grandfather love?
He especially loved beaten biscuits with country ham. He loved Mountain Valley Spring Water. His favorite dessert was caramel cake.

How would you describe your food?
I consider my style as regional new American. It is focused on the highest quality ingredients sourced locally and from around world. We believe in the spirit of freshness and seasonality.

Why do you think seasonality and using local ingredients is so important?
Items taste better if they are in season and don't have to travel far to get to you. Peaches are a prime example. If picked ripe from the tree, peaches become virtually impossible to ship, but they taste so much better. I love that memory and anticipation affects how we enjoy food. Once you taste Georgia strawberries in season then you look forward to them. You learn to wait for things which help define the time of year.

What is your relationship as a chef with local farmers?
I am fortunate to work closely with a number of local farmers. It has made my food better. I get together with them and plan seed purchases so we can anticipate the future season. Doing this helps tie me to the growing cycles. What is available writes my menus for me.

Best piece of advice you would give a home cooking enthusiast?
Buy the best quality product and don't try to add too much with a dish. Focus on simple clean flavors. Don't have a recipe force what you buy at the market. The market should dictate what you buy.

What are a few kitchen tools that you can't live without?
A cast iron skillet, Microplane, fish spatula, wooden cutting board, and, of coarse, sharp knives.

You just battled in the Food Network's "Iron Chef America". What was that experience like?
It was a lot of fun. It was hard work and intense during the battle but everyone at the Food Network was so kind and professional, they really helped create an exciting mood.

You are an avid reader of cookbooks and it's been said that you are sometimes even quoting them on the line at your restaurant. What is one of your favorite quotes?
My recent one is from Leah Chase (she owns Dooky Chase Restaurant in New Orleans): "Cooking is just like religion. Rules don't no more make a cook than sermons make a saint." It was told to her by an old African cook.

What ingredients should we expect to see on your menu this spring?
Morels, asparagus, ramps, wild salmon, spring lamb, baby radishes, English peas, fava beans, baby artichokes, spring garlic, strawberries, softshell crabs, crawfish, and shad roe.

When spending time away from his kitchen, Hopkins enjoys time with his wife and business partner, Gina, and their two children, Linton and Avery.

Linton Hopkins' English Pea and Corn Succotash

Serves 8

1 pound cooked English peas
2 tablespoons whole butter
1 Vidalia Onion, small dice
1 clove spring garlic
1 cup cooked corn niblets
1/2 cup chicken stock
4 tablespoons chopped parsley
To taste salt

  1. Add butter to large skillet and sauté onions until soft. Add chopped garlic.
  2. Add corn, then stock, and cook 'till stock is reduced to a glaze.
  3. Toss in peas and warm through; being careful not to overcook.
  4. Adjust seasoning and sprinkle with parsley.