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To make sponge, in a medium bowl, combine beer and yeast and stir a few times. Let stand until yeast has dissolved, 3 to 4 minutes. Mix in all-purpose flour by hand or with a wooden spoon until evenly incorporated. Cover loosely and let sit at room temperature for 10 to 12 hours.
To make dough, transfer sponge to the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook. Add yeast, warm water, spelt flour, whole wheat flour and salt. Begin mixing on low speed. When dough starts to come together, add 1/2 cup cool water to make a dough of medium consistency (not dry but not too wet). Continue to mix on the lowest or second-lowest speed until a smooth dough forms, 5 to 7 minutes. Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and form into a ball. Return to the bowl, cover loosely and let sit in a warm spot until dough is almost doubled in size, about 1 hour.
Turn dough out onto a lightly floured surface and divide into 12 equal rectangles. Roll a piece into a 12 inch-rope and tie into a knot. Repeat with remaining dough pieces.
Line 2 rimmed baking sheets with parchment paper. To make topping, combine poppy seeds, sesame seeds, sunflower seeds, fennel seeds and salt in a pie plate. Quickly dip the top of each roll into a small bowl of water, and then press the roll gently into seed mixture. Place 6 rolls on each prepared baking sheet. Cover with plastic wrap and let sit in a warm spot until rolls are almost doubled in size, 45 minutes to 1 hour.
Meanwhile, position 1 rack on the bottom and 1 rack in the middle of the oven. Preheat the oven to 500°F. Place a metal baking pan on the lower rack to use for creating steam.
When rolls are ready to bake, carefully pour about 1/2 cup water into the hot pan in the oven and immediately close the door. Wait about 2 minutes for the steam to settle, then quickly place 1 baking sheet on the middle rack (you can bake both pans if your oven is large enough). Lower the oven temperature to 450°F and bake until rolls are golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer rolls to a wire rack and cool. Serve warm or at room temperature.