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Preheat oven to 450°F. Line a large baking dish or a baking sheet with parchment paper and top with a rack.
In a small bowl, mix together olive oil, lemon zest, chopped thyme, garlic, chile flakes and kosher salt.
Cut 3 diagonal slashes down to the bone on each side of the fish. Season fish all over, including inside the slashes and cavity, with mixture.
Lay on the rack and stuff each slash and cavity with the thyme stems, sliced lemons and kumquats.
Cook, without turning, until fish flakes with a fork and flesh is opaque in the center, about 20 minutes.
Carve fish into four portions and transfer to plates. Drizzle with juices from the baking dish and garnish with flaky salt before serving.